Roma
EAT
“classics”
CHECCHINO DAL 1887
grandma’s table
a century-old clubhouse for Roman politicos—not to mention a favorite of film-maker Fellini and fashion icon Valentino—this classic spot near the Trevi Fountain can give off a slightly nefarious air, but the spaghetti al moro (a light-side re-spin of the much heavier spaghetti alla carbonara) can't be beaten. Insist on sitting in the front room.
a family run place with plenty of outside seating just around the corner from, Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere. Must order: Maria's favorite antipasti or spaghetti alle vongole and grilled calamari.
meat-heavy menu
GRAPPOLO D’ORO*
Michelin rated
just 14 tables at this cozy little place, located near some major tourist attractions; be sure to book ahead.
TRATTORIA MONTI*
no frills space
DA ROBERTA E LORETTA*
curated
—
“rustic”
DAR FILETTARO A SANTA BARBARA*
tight menu
rustic
—
“modern”
IL DESIDERIO PRESO PER LA CODA
veggie-goer
elevated typical dishes
PIANOSTRADA
top floor seating
CLUB DERRIERE
MARIGOLD*
light lunch
slow food
—
“pizza al trancio”
ANTICO FORNO ROSCIOLI / CAFFE’
tiny, packed but worth it
BERBERE*
PIZZERIA DA BAFFETTO*
SUPPLI ROMA*
PIZZARIUM BONCI*
—
“pasta”
FELICE A TESTACCIO*
TRECCA*
MATRICIANELLA*
best amatriciana in town
—
“pausa caffe”
Must order: maritozzo
Nordic-styled
PANELLA
GIOLITTI
all-time classic
SEE
“Galleries”
MAXXI MUSEO
GALLERIA COLONNA MUSEO
CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE
GALLERIA SPADA
ACCADEMIA PANTHEON
Must see: Borromini, Valadier
PALAZZO FARNESE
VILLA BORGHESE
GALLERIA DORIA PAMPHILI
CASA BALLA*
A futurist’s home
PALAZZO BARBERINI*
PALAZZO ALTEMPS*
For classical art
GIPSOTECA OF THE HENDRIK CHRISTIAN ANDERSEN MUSEUM*
—
“Churches”
CHIESA SANT’IGNAZIO DI LOYOLA
BASILICA DI SANTA CECILIA
CHIESA DI SAN LUIGI DEI FRANCESI
DRINK
“aperitivo”
IL GOCCETTO
Worth the stand
GIULIO, PASSAMI DELL’OLIO
ANTIDOTO
An unfussy hangout
LA MESCITA*
BAR PERU’
For after dinner
bar with a crowd
CANTINA RIPGRANDE
BEPPE E I SUOI FORMAGGI*
It’s cheesy
SHOP & STROLL
ATELIER BOMBA
SCHOSTAL - chic and simple pjs
CHEZ DEDE
ANNIBALE GAMMARELLI
LIBRERIA GIUFA’
LE TRE SARTE
TOTTI TESSUTI
one-of-a-kind fabrics
PARALUMI - LAMPSHADES - LAR DAL 1938
dreamscape
TRIPLEF
multi-concept store by Fendi
HOLLYWOOD TUTTO SUL CINEMA
movie fanatics
GETAWAY
OSTERIA LOTTO
let Chef Marco take the lead
L’ISOLA DEL PESCATORE (SANTA SEVERA)
table by the water
DA ROMOLO
STAY
HOTEL DE RICCI
SENTHO
VUOTOPIENO
PALAZZO VELABRO
LOCARNO
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*for restaurants on my ‘want to go’ list