Cadaques
From pirates’ hideout to Dalí’s bolthole
The character of the Cadaquesencs, as the locals are known, has been forged by piracy, contraband, isolation, bad luck and the Tramuntana, the maddening north wind.
The fates have not been kind to the people of Cadaqués. For centuries, in between kidnapped by pirates, they made wine, but then the phylloxera epidemic in the late 19th century destroyed the vines. Undaunted, they replanted with olives but the trees were killed off by a freak frost in 1956.
After that, Cadaquesencs went into the tourism business, spurred on by the famous, Salvador Dalí.
EAT
“restaurants”
‘Seaside restaurant on the water, ideal for an elevated local food and wine. Must order: sardines, prawn salad and tuna steak’
‘an institution in Cadaques, not to be missed with a stunning view on the seafront. Must order: raw tuna, paella, green salad and local squid’
MOT
‘a favourite for every hour of the day. Lively tapas restaurant serving a jamon bocadillo for breakfast, salads for lunch and cheese platters with natural wines. Must order: patatas bravas’
‘ideal if a change of scenery is what you’re after. Reminiscing a greek tavern with melting feta, grilled fish off a picturesque street in Cadaques’
‘a restaurant run by young owners who are the authors of their menu offering serving unique, beautiful and delicate flavours'. Must order: asparagus soup’
‘if Michelin star is what you fancy, this is the perfect spot for you. Must order: tomate con crema de parmesano, buey de mar, anchoas, huevo carbonara’
“ice-cream”
DRINK
A hip, modern and meticulously curated bar renown represented by its Catalan sheepdog in the most unique spot in town (with sea view).
‘For a scenic mountain top view over Cadaques, enjoy the sunset and scenery straight from the beach with a Catalan styled aperitivo. Make sure to ask for the live music gig (usually on Thursdays!)’
‘laid back and outdoorsy’
‘in the heart of Cadaques, a hidden gem and the perfect meet-up for a post swing and drink. ‘
READ
The Secret Life of Salvador Dali - autobiography
The Shameful Life of Salvador Dali by Ian Gibson